On the verge of May 2023, I had the privilege to visit the world's largest teaching center of Nyingma LineageĀ of Buddhism. Guess where? Not Cambodia, not China, but in the heart of Karnataka, India. The story will depict the beautiful lifestyle of the monks, starting as children and continuing to their full-fledged missionary role in the Namdroling Monastery, Coorg, Madikeri, Karnataka.
Why Coorg?
The formation of mini Tibet in Coorg cropped up when Tibetans were forced to leave their motherland after the Chinese took over. As a result, they came down to Coorg as refugees to seek asylum. Spontaneously, many Buddhist colonies grew up, and monasteries were settled in and around Coorg. One such stunning Buddhist monastery near the twin town of Kushalnagar in Bylakuppe is the Golden Temple or Namdroling Monastery. After Dharamshala, Bylakuppe is known to be the second-largest Tibetan settlement in India.
About The Golden Temple
This Golden Temple was established in 1963 and is now recognized as the largest teaching center of Nyingmapa, a lineage of Tibetan Buddhism in the world. It is also home to over 5000 monks and nuns in the Sangha community. The massive complex of Golden Temple complex boasts splendid gilded images of Guru Padmasambhava (also known as Guru Rinpoche), Buddha Sakyamuni, and Amitayus.
The temple by itself emanates a glorious aura with impressive visuals. Right from the entrance the doors welcome you with a grand appearance leading to more impressive and ornate structures and colourful murals depicting gods and demons from Tibetan Buddhist mythology.
Nyingma Way
The monastery is rich in its teaching culture and one can see the strict & disciplined life of the budding monks there. Every morning, they are assembled on the monastery's premises where they chant the hymns from the sacred book for Padmasambhava - ą¼ą¼ ą¼Ā ą¼ą½¢ą¾ą¾±ą½£ą¼ą½ą½ą½ą¼ą½ą½ą¾Øą½±ą¼ą½ą¼ą½¢ą½ ą½²ą¼ą½ą½“ą½ą½¦ą¼ą½ą½ą¼ą½ą½ą¼ą½ą½¦ą¾ą½“ą½£ą¼ą½ą½ą½ ą¼ą½ą½ą½ą¼ą½ą¾³ą½¼ą½ą¼ą½ą¾±ą½ŗą½ą¼ą½¢ą¾”ą½¼ą¼ą½¢ą¾ą½ŗą½ ą½²ą¼ą½ ą½ą¾²ą½“ą½£ą¼ą½ ą½ą½¼ą½¢ą¼
The postulants or samaneras (as we refer to the little monks) eat only in the morning and are not supposed to lead a luxurious life. Their rules forbid the use of money, although this rule is nowadays not kept by all monks. The monks are part of the Sangha, the third of the Triple Gem of Buddha, Dhamma, Sangha. They have the sacred bead garland which they hold and recite the chants 108 times with the gong of the drums ringing throughout the session and trust me when I say, it would be the most peaceful way of life ever!
Nyingma Art Life
The Tibetan monk community at Namdroling Monastery (The Golden Temple) in Bylakuppe on the Mysuru-Kodagu border has cleaned, painted, and beautified the monasteries, temples, stupas, prayer halls, colleges, hostels, offices, and hospitals to give the temple premises at Bylakuppe a new look.Ā Remarkably, not a single labor from outside was used! Over 15 to 20 monks were involved in painting the temple while over 100 student monks painted the other structures.
Usually, the monastery is chock-a-block with tourists. The absence of tourist movement during lockdown and post-lockdown periods facilitated a smooth process.Ā The actual painting of the spiritual abode began on Nov. 7, 2020, as it was on this day Lord Buddha Sakyamuni descended from heaven and the day is considered as a Holy Descending Day by the Tibetan community.
With intricate designs of the mythology in all the walls, the monastery is a place where even the old and wise would get peace of mind, amidst the heavenly chants. Giving shelter to a few old people, this temple also has a working restaurant inside the premises and a guest house for people to live in. Mostly monks, students, and old residents stay at these quarters.
A Place of Serenity
With Tibetan influence oozing out from each of the temple's architecture and design, the Namdroling Monastery upholds its value as the biggest teaching center of Nyingma. While life goes on for the monks inside the temples with prayers, life lessons, rituals, and more, thousands of tourists enrich this place with their presence.
Namdroling has been serving as a host to many since its establishment. Truly an epitome of Buddhist majesty in the heart of the North Karnataka.
Check out more itineraries of Coorg that you can cover from this Monastery. Make sure you are covering this one your way from/to Bangalore as this is distant from the rest of the visiting places in and around Coorg. Although entry is free, parking comes with a charge and this place is cleaner as monks are always striving to keep it hygienic. So, please carry your trash bags and help them to keep it clean.
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